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WARREN'S FREE BRIDGE WORKSHOP |
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PLAY WINNING PARTY BRIDGE THE EASY WAY! |
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SENIORS TO RAISE THE LEVEL OF THEIR PLAY |
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USING STANDARD-AMERICAN GOREN BRIDGE TECHNIQUES |
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EXERCISE THE MIND "LEARN THE LANGUAGE OF BRIDGE" |
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� FREE WEEKLY LESSONS |
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� START ANY TIME � IMPROVE YOUR BIDDING SKILLS |
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ABOUT WARREN HAWLEY He learned bridge at the age of 8 yrs. filling in as a fourth with his parents and grandparents. Bridge played a part in his early career advancement. After retiring in 1985, he re-learned the game and volunteered to work with senior citizens conducting a free weekly bridge workshop and party bridge play. They meet in the city of Anaheim, CA, USA, every Monday & Friday noon at the Brookhurst Community Center. Upwards of thirty to fifty players attend. He also taught several beginner classes. |
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� IF POSSIBLE, ATTEND MY WORKSHOP |
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� DUPLICATE CONVENTIONS ALSO COVERED |
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� DECLARER & DEFENSIVE PLAY TIPS |
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CONTENTS
Lesson #1 - Bidding Mode Lesson #2 - No Trump Bids
Lesson #3 - Point Count Lesson #4 - Scoring Points
Lesson #5 - Declarer Play Lesson #6 - Defensive Play
Lesson #7 - Opening 2 Bids Lesson #8 - Opening NT Bids
Lesson #9 - Bidding Point Scale
INTRODUCTION
As we all know, there are several bridge game formats popular among players, therefore it is necessary to be flexible, using a different strategy for each one. Rubber Bridge with unlimited hands justifies playing to part scores, but Party Bridge with rounds limited to four, five or six hands, call for game contracts for maximum bonus scoring opportunities each round. Duplicate Bridge requires an entirely different strategy utilizing different bidding conventions that may not fair well in Party Bridge since part scores carry over to the next hand and influence bidding, and sacrifice bids can produce top board results. You can lose, but you win! Part scores need to be defended against or taken advantage of by utilizing my "OVERCALL" bid system.Remembering gambling days, I recommend that players "make believe" they are playing for one cent a point, after golf, at the nineteenth hole. This should help to keep you and your partner honest. Like, down four, doubled and vulnerable - that will cost you $11 each.
This workshop will be devoted mainly to the Party Bridge format, however much of the coverage applies to Duplicate and Rubber Bridge as well. One of the lessons will offer bidding conventions mostly used in Duplicate.
In the LANGUAGE OF BRIDGE, I maintain that there is a correct bid to describe any hand under any circumstances, and if players can interpret the bids, we are communicating on the same page with precision as to minimum total points combined and suit or NT preference.
Your comments and/or corrections are always welcomed in the interest of helping to raise the level of my game! LOGIC should prevail according to my bridge mentor, Jo Millson of Anaheim, CA, a lady, ninety years old who has taught bridge for over twenty-five years. Arguably, we won�t always agree.
MY SYSTEM OF "BIDDING MODE"
1. Game or Slam contract mode 2. Part Score and/or Defensive
3. Defensive and/or Sacrifice 4. Sacrifice mode.
To remember, compare it to the telephone menu we often hear � PRESS 1 FOR�. PRESS 2 FOR.......
OVERCALLS � Once an opponent has opened the bidding, we are now competing in the trenches for the best result. I would prefer being set one or two rather than permitting an opponent a part score, especially if not vulnerable. A hundred or two hundred points usually has little or no impact in the several winner�s 5,000 or more points on the table at the end of the day.
Overcalls can be made with 8 to 12 points and a biddable suit, perhaps closer to 12 points at the two level, and, if nothing else, calls for the best opening lead. By staying in the auction, you can be much more competitive than if you pass, which states your hand does not have any of the overcall requirements
Response to partner�s overcall � do not raise or change an overcall unless there is an intervening bid, or you can raise to a game contract � always keep the bidding at a minimum level if you are going no where.
` After an opponent has opened the bidding, with an OPENING HAND OR BETTER, 13 to 21 points, bid a take out double forcing partner�s response if there is a pass. Partner should bid one more than is necessary to describe 10 or more points otherwise bid at the required level. The take out double hand can support any suit bid OR contains a biddable suit.
If the takeout double is over the three of a suit pre-emptive opening bid, partner may pass with a good hand for penalty points or bid strongest suit with a weaker hand.
OTHER OVERCALL BIDS
Cue bid � Opening bid one heart - overcall bid two hearts describing 22 or more points including distribution, with first or second round control of the heart suit. Partner must bid!
One no-trump � equivalent of an opening one no-trump hand with stopper in the opening suit bid.
Four of a major or five of a minor � can make contract within two tricks. (This can also be an opening bid)
Jump overcall � Same as a pre-emptive opening three bid � Can take six tricks not vulnerable or seven tricks vulnerable � rule of 500 � willing to sacrifice 500 points if doubled. PRE-EMPTIVE BIDS ARE ALWAYS DEFENSIVE BIDS DESIGNED TO INTERFERE WITH OPPONENTS POTENTIAL GAME OR SLAM CONTRACT! Partner must pass unless he can take four tricks not vulnerable, or three tricks vulnerable.
Unusual no-trump � two no-trumps over opening suit bid - must have five in one minor suit and six in the other minor suit. Bid can be strong, pre-emptive or defensively weak. Partner must respond in best minor suit and and should never bid 3NT.
An immediate double to an opening 1NT should be based on 16 points and usually should be considered a penalty double.
A pass describes a hand with none of the above!
NO TRUMP OPENER & RESPONSES
NO TRUMPS CONTRACTS - God's gift to bridge players - you need only bid three for a game and bonus!
Many bridge players are AFRAID of no trump for some reason, and you hear it mentioned often that 1 NT is the hardest to make, or, I hate NT - blah, blah, blah! You need NEVER BE AFRAID if you know the requirements for an opening NT, and the proper responses. Rarely, could you be in any serious trouble.
It is no sin to occasionally be set by the opponents for reasonable penalties and some would even say, going set fairly often is acceptable, since you should be playing for the game bonus points to end up in the "winner's circle."
Doing the math and logic are the means for successful contracts. The opening 1 NT balanced square hand (16-18 high card points) requires a doubleton to be headed at least by the queen and three small in a suit is also okay. If it contains 17-18 points, it asks partner for 8-9 high card points, and with 16 points it asks for 10 or more high card points - at least a total of 26 points for a makeable 3 NT contract. Never open 1NT with a five card major to show points - jump rebids in yours or partner's suit show 16-18 points including distribution.
Anything less than 8 points, 99 times out of 100, YOU SHOULD PASS as you are going no where! There is one rare exception for what is universally known as a DROP DEAD BID - two of a suit response, (except for the two club bid if you are using the Stayman convention). This two level bid describes a hand with zero to three points and at least a six card, but preferably a seven card suit - a RESCUE bid that partner MUST PASS. 1 NT cannot be made, but naming the long suit trumps usually will make at the two level. Unless you and your partner know otherwise, PASS, because you may wind up at three in the suit or at 2 NT - really big trouble if doubled.
Respond 2NT with 8-9 high cards points, 3NT with 10-14 high card points, 4NT with 15-16 high card points - opener bids slam with 18 points. Bid 6NT with 17-18 high card points. Bid 7NT with 21 high card points.
TIP: RESPONDER ADDS ONE POINT FOR A FIVE CARD SUIT!
With a 5 card suit and 10 points including distribution bid three of your suit. With a 6 card major suit and no more than 8-9 points bid 4 hearts or 4 spades - additional point count invites slam.
NO TRUMP RESPONSE BIDDING SCALE: 8-10-15-17-21 (Easy to remember)
REVIEW POINT COUNT TABLE
Every so often, at my workshop, we take a point counting test. The scores are worse than the SAT's (USA College Entrance Tests)
How would you test on the following table? A,K,Q,J examples are singletons.
(After subtracting one point for unprotected honors and adding distribution point values)
A 4+2=6 Pts. K 2+2=4 Pts. Q 1+2=3 Pts.
J 0+2=2 " Kx 3+1=4 " Qx 1+1=2 "
Jx 0+1=1 " Ax 4+1=5 " AK 7+1=8 "
AQ 5+1=6 "
RE-VALUE TOTAL POINT COUNT
When supporting partner's suit bid (FOR THE "MAGIC EIGHT" COMBINED TRUMP TOTAL IN BOTH HANDS - 5+3, 6+2, 4+4) count: Five points for void, three points for singleton and one point for doubleton. Increase each honor you hold in partner's suit by one point unless those honors already total four points.
To equate "trick taking ability" to opening hand point count, with a long suit and top honors, add one point for the fifth card and two points for each card thereafter, assuming the contract will be in this suit, even if your partner does not support it.
MISSED SCORING OPPORTUNITIES
This week's workshop topic deals with undoubled contracts that are set and underbid games and slams that are made. When this happens, you often hear comments like - "Oh well, it's only a game" or "I don't have a very good score, anyway," however, one's party bridge partners for the day may be thinking otherwise, and playing to WIN!
Frequently, underbidding situations occur when the math is not being done - minimum total points in both hands, points are incorrectly counted, hands not revalued, minimum bids are made instead of a jump bid or showing a new suit, incorrect responses to 1NT openers or you pass holding six points, after your partner opened. Or you stop, for just plain lack of aggressiveness to play for game and slam bonuses needed to win. DON'T BE AFRAID!
TIP - In party bridge with limited hands (4-5) played each round, when your partner opens the bidding after you pass, he should have a very good hand, at least 15 or more points including distribution, on the shorter odds that you may have 10-11 points. It is much less likely that you will hold 12 points after passing. Never waste or burn hands on part scores, in this format. With minimum openers, after your partner has passed, it is best to PASS even though you may think the next hand will not be as good - odds are fifty-fifty the combined hands of you and your partner will be BETTER! Less than game contract potential by either side occurs in about 50% of the deals - so by passing them out, you increase the game bonus scoring opportunities. Remember, you score as an individual, competing against the entire house, with a goal of averaging at least 1,000 points per round.
Game contract penalty doubles down more than one trick produce good scores, especially when vulnerable, and in the event they are made, opponent's additional score is quite negligible, unless, when rarely redoubled. When undoubled set contracts occur, often, both partners remark - "I couldn't double!"
TIPS ON WHEN TO DOUBLE GAME CONTRACTS
1. Your partner has bid and you have some points 2. Opponents have bid three suits and end up in 3NT - no fits - a contract most often very difficult to make. 3. One opponent hesitates, and remarks, "Oh well, it's the last hand - let's go for it!" 4. Take a good look at the possibility of doubling opponent's game contract in a minor suit or slam bid, - what did the opponent's bids describe in arriving at their contract? Did they struggle getting there? Do you have a trick or two - can you gamble on partner taking a trick? 5. If you have a long suit, usually at least two other hands will have long suits - the same applies if you have a square hand, or if you have a singleton or void.
TIP ON SLAM BIDDING
When it becomes obvious that both hands may hold sufficient points to pursue a slam, the first partner to establish a suit or no trump preference becomes Captain and asks for Aces and Kings, utilizing Gerber or Blackwood.
REDOUBLING AND GRAND SLAMS
My experience and logic tells me only to REDOUBLE or bid a GRAND SLAM when you are positive that you can make the contract - based on the bidding or, like a lay down!
DECLARER PLAY
After opening lead, study dummy layout and formulate play strategy. In no-trump contract, count total winning tricks, and in a suit contract, count total losing tricks. If necessary, or to play for overtricks in duplicate or doubled contracts, develop options to establish additional winners by setting up a suit, or finessing, or double finessing.
TIPS
1. Play odds on for two missing honors in a suit to be split, one each in opponent's hands. 2. When you have Axx in one hand and Qxx in the other, try for 50/50 odds to take two tricks, play the ace first and lead to the queen. 3. Discard a loser on a loser. 4. Before starting a cross-ruff, cash in your side suit ace/king winning tricks. 5. Often times, force opponent to trump with a winner trump instead of giving up two of your trump by leading trump. 6. End-play opponent. 7. Most always play low from dummy on opening lead, as 3rd hand opponent will play his highest card anyway, often saving you a useful honor. 8. Always lead low to high honors. 9. Most always lead out trumps, unless you are going to cross ruff, before working side suits, but usually take advantage of dummy singleton or void ruffs before doing so. 10. "Face the music" by leading your losers, as often times it is advantageous to have opponents on lead. 11. Work on a side suit instead of trumping a suit you lead from dummy, unless you need transportation - opponents will usually make this safe lead.
DEFENSIVE PLAY
OPENING LEADS - a long and complicated, sometimes controversial, subject with lengthy lead tables, so I'll try to convey my own, easy to remember version. "ABOUT HALF THE GAME CONTRACTS ARE SET OR MADE BASED ON THE OPENING LEAD" So! Is this important??
1. The most obvious lead is highest card in your partner's bid suit except lead lowest from Jxx or 10xx looking for the J or 10 to be promoted. However in NT you may consider your own top of long, high sequenced suit. If you partner has not bid, in NT, lead 4th highest from your longest and strongest suit, partner playing 3rd hand highest to force stopper. 2. Opening suits with honors not sequenced or touching - YOU LOSE! 3. Arguably, opening a worthless doubleton - usually sets up the suit and YOU LOSE! 4. Underleading an AQ always makes their K good! 5. Underleading a Kxx makes your 50-50 odds longer to make it good! 6. Sooo - what's left - Qxx (underlead Q), xxxx & xxx (lead top of nothing), x, A, AK (lead ace first), Ax, QJx or QJxx (lead Queen), or trump. The bold, underlined leads signal singleton or doubleton, and a lead not in yours or your partner's bid suit signals singleton. LOGIC - narrow it down to two choices and try to make the best possible lead. 7. Or, when in doubt, lead trump.
TIPS - 1. "Aces are made to take Kings" so rarely lead or underlead an Ace. Exceptions may be in minor game or slam contracts. (Don't you love it when they open with all their Aces!) 2. Try a lead to dummy's bid suit strength. 3. In NT, leading the unbid suit is often an excellent lead. 4. With AKx, always lead the king first. 5. Always lead trump when declarer ruff or cross ruff situations are likely, tipped off when declarer gets in and doesn't lead trump.
In ongoing leads, make the "safe" lead, force finesses and declarer trumping, but by all means, AVOID leads that give declarer a ruff - sluff!
SIGNALING - High-low signals to continue and may show an even number of cards held. Low-high is negative and may show an odd number of cards held in that suit. Sluffing a high card may be asking for that suit to be led.
OPENING TWO SUIT FORCING BIDS
OPEN two of a suit with 22 or more points (easy to remember) including distribution points. Partner responds 2NT with less that eight points (no slam) otherwise bids positively or makes a jump bid inviting slam. If you are using the two club convention opener with 19 - 21 points respond two diamonds with less than six points, otherwise make a positive response, OR show points, 2 hearts = 6 points, 2 spades = 9, 2 NT = 12 points with Rebids showing suit or NT preference. (Conventions used must be pre-established with partner) Do the math!
OPENING NO TRUMP BIDS
Must be balanced or square hand with doubleton headed by at least a queen - three small in a suit is okay, and no five card major -
1 NT with 16-18 High Card points - 2 NT with 22 -24 High Card points (non-forcing but responder bids 3 NT with three points) - 3 NT with 25-27 High Card points, not a shut-out bid!
MY BIDDING POINT SCALE
6-9 Pts; 10-11; 12-15; 16-18; 19-21; 22-24; 25-27
Responding to opening one level suit bids - 1. 6-9 pts: bid 1NT, two over one in partners suit, or up the ladder biddable suit at one level (may have more than 9 pts). 2. 10-11: bid a suit at the two level, then show support for partner's opening major suit, at least three, on rebid. 3. 12-15: bid 2NT or jump to three in partner's major suit with support - at least three. 4. 16-18: bid 3NT - not a shut out bid. 5. 19-21: make a jump shift suit bid, inviting slam.
These are all precision bids that promise the indicated points, so never misrepresent or mislead you partner.
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